I was more than a little bummed that our trip to Guadalajara would have us away from Mexico City on the night of the Iluminemos Mexico march. Starting at the statue of the Angel and proceeding to the Zocalo, thousands of Mexicans were expected to descend upon the capital and unite in a peaceful, non-political march for peace.

You probably haven’t heard about el “Caso Marti,” the tragedy that was one of the reasons why the march was organized. On June 4, Fernando Marti, a 14 year old boy who was the son of a wealthy businessman, was kidnapped on his way to school. A month and a half later, Marti was found dead in the trunk of a stolen car.

In the weeks since, Marti’s father has been tireless in demanding that the federal government take more active measures in combating kidnapping and other forms of violence. He voiced the thoughts of thousands of Mexicans when he appeared before a group of politicians and authorities and, exasperated with their excuses, said, “If you can’t fulfill the duties you’ve been given, resign!”

Caso Marti was a high profile case among the thousands of crimes that are committed in Mexico City and the country on a monthly basis, but it seemed to be a tipping point. A group began to organize the Iluminemos Mexico march and informed politicians that they weren’t welcome to make speeches at the event. The capital’s newspapers dedicated entire sections not only to informing readers about the event, but also to publishing investigative pieces about the problems of crime in Mexico.

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The plans for the march spread quickly from one city to another, and last night, at 7 PM, people in towns across Mexico put on white shirts, lit candles, and took to the streets in a show of unity in their declarations for peace. Here in Guadalajara, it was raining until 6:40 PM. Yet by 7:15, at the corner of Vallarta and Avenida Cuatuhemoc, there was a mass of people as far as I could see in either direction. There were the obviously wealthy and the obviously poor. The young and the elderly. Children on their fathers’ shoulders. People in wheelchairs. On crutches. People with white flags, with Mexican flags, all moving en masse to the Minerva fountain, where doves would be released and the crowd would erupt in the national anthem.

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We had the camera and two video cameras and weaved in and out amongst the marchers. “Poverty is also a form of violence!” yelled one student. “Felipe Calderon [the Mexican president] is my friend,” one elderly woman told me, cupping her hands around the flame of her candle so it wouldn’t go out. “We’re here because we want a safe future for our children,” said one mother, a tear rolling down her cheek as she talked to me. “Thank you for being here,” said men and women, again and again as we stopped them and asked for brief interviews.

At 8:30, the crowd gathered at the fountain and placed their candles around its perimeter, filling the entire space. And suddenly, a wave of applause ripples up the avenue… a group of indigenous students, dressed in outfits representative of their respective cultural groups, is making its way to the fountain and the crowd welcomes them with whistles and applause.

They’re taken aback, surprised to be drawn into the crowd’s embrace. “There is so much discrimination and violence against indigenous people,” said one young woman I interviewed, “so it feels very special for the people to welcome us in this way.” “VIVA MEXICO!!” one woman screams with a kind of primal ferocity, her face contorted with rage and hope. “VIVA!” the crowd roars back, before it begins to dissipate.

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Photos: Francisco & Julie Schwietert Collazo

English version; Please scroll down for Spanish version and video.

by Francisco Collazo; Translated by Julie Schwietert Collazo

Walking in Mexico City, we come upon a group of dancers in a park near Circular de Morelia Street. The group, we learn, is named Binniruyaa, and is comprised of a group of students from different disciplines: all of them young, cheerful, and committed to the responsibility of saving the traditional dances of the Oaxaca region. They’re preparing to participate in a dance festival that will take place in September at the National Arts Center.

Their professor, Karla Flores, is dedicated to rescuing this form of dance from the coast, which was once very popular but which is all but forgotten today. She tells us that her group was formed three years ago by teachers and students. Today, one of the instructors is teaching three dances: “La Sarna,” “El Gallito,” and “El Palomo.” In the sarna, the dancers scratch themselves as if trying to seek relief from a terrible itch, a move incorporated into the dance that is executed without missing a step or losing the rhythm. In the “gallito,” the men follow the women just like the rooster does with his hen, even making rooster calls at the end of the piece, a faithful imitation of the cock. The “palomo” dance is carried out with the same detail and liveliness of movement as the other dances. And all of the dances are enlivened by typical folkloric costumes, which will be worn on the day of the Putleco Carnival in Putla Villa, located in the state of Guerrero on the Pacific coast.

Mexico City dances to the music of the world. Here, it’s not hard to find rock, samba, tango, or danzon; bars and nightclubs fill up with dancers eager to enjoy all types of music. In fact, they dance to tropical rhythms that are no longer popular in their countries of origin; one of these is the “danzon” of Cuba, a rhythm that was very popular around 1800, but which is danced today with the same kind of fervor in Merida, Mexico, attracting thousands dancing in competition. What’s interesting is that these rhythms aren’t danced by the immigrants from those countries where the songs and dances originated; rather, they’re danced by Mexicans with the same kind of feeling that characterized those who first danced to these songs. Mexico is the world’s dance floor. In music and dance, Mexico celebrates its universality and reminds us how much a part of the world it is.

Its recognition of the rest of the world isn’t only found in its dance steps, but also in the streets that carry names of the world’s rivers: the Mississippi, the Amazon, the Nile… and as if this wasn’t enough, the city’s streets are also named after world cities, including Rome, Medellin, and Luxembourg. The streets also honor the world’s writers and philosophers, among them Plato, Socrates, Edgar Allan Poe, Rousseau, and Tennyson. In this landlocked city, you can walk alongside all these rivers, in all of these cities, conscious of the fact that art is universal and belongs to everyone.

Today, there’s more dancing than usual, as Mexico’s independence day draws near. On September 16, Mexico will celebrate almost 200 years of independence. And throughout its history, there has always been dance. The Aztecs danced to celebrate victories, births, marriages, and all manner of festive occasions. Today, Mexico dances out its daily life, dipping and turning with grace around obstacles. It dances its corn and its oil, during crisis and during victories. If there is one thing for us to learn about Mexico, it’s that dance fortifies the country and is a source of pride…. If you’ll excuse me… can I have this dance, please?

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[Version en espanol]

“Fiebre de Baile a lo Mexicano”

Caminando por la ciudad de Mexico, nos encontramos con un grupo de baile en el parque localizado en la circular de Morelia. Su nombre luego sabemos que es grupo folklorico “Binniruyaa,” compuesto por un grupo de estudiantes de diferentes disciplinas; todos ellos jovenes, alegres, y sobre todo llevan sobre sus hombros la responsabilidad de salvar los bailes tradicionales de la costa de Oaxaca. Ellos se preparan para formar parte del festival de baile que tendra lugar en Septiembre en El Centro Nacional de Artes.

Su profesora, Karla Flores, esta decidida a rescatar esta forma artistica del baile de la costa que antes era muy popular, pero hoy ya casi olvidado. Ella nos cuenta que este grupo se formo hace 3 anos por profesores y alumnos de la escuela media y superior; ellos ensayan hoy tres danzas muy movidas que llevan por titulos “La Sarna,” “El Gallito,” y “El Palomo.” En la sarna se le hace incapies a los bailadores para que expresen la picazon que esta produce sin perder el paso y manteniendo el ritmo. En la del gallito los hombres persiguen a las mujeres como el gallo lo haria en su gallinero, he inclusive producen los cantos del gallo al final de la pieza haciendo de esta manera una imitacion fiel de este. La del palomo con igual destreza y viveza en sus movimientos y ademanes. Nos deja saber tambien que todo esto va acompanado de sus trajes tipicos de mucho colorido, como se usaria en el carnaval Putleco de la Delegacion de Putla Villa en el Departamento de Guerrero en la costa del Pacifico.

La ciudad de Mexico baila la musica del mundo. No es dificil escuchar un rock, samba, tango, o danzon; los bares y centros nocturnos se llenan de bailadores para disfrutar de esta musica. De hecho aqui se bailan los ritmos tropicales que ya no son populares en sus lugares de origen; uno de ellos es el “danzon” de Cuba, ritmo que fue muy popular en esa isla alrdedor del 1800, pero que hoy se baila con furia en la ciudad de Merida atrayendo miles de entusiastas para su competicion. De todo esto lo mas facinante es que estos ritmos no son bailados por los inmigrantes de estos paises que alli residen; estos son bailados con el mismo sentimiento y sentido de pertencia con que lo bailaron sus creadores. Mexico es la pista de baile de la musica del mundo. En la musica y el baile, Mexico celebra su universalidad y nos deja saber en una forma muy especial que nos tiene presentes a todos.

En su esfuerzo por hacer justicia a la universalidad de esta ciudad podemos encountrar con facilidad calles que llevan los nombres de los rios del mundo: Mississippi, Amazonas, Nilo, y por si esto fuera poco, tambien le da a sus calles nombres de las mayores capitales y ciudades del mundo tales como Roma, Medellin, Luxemburgo, y finaliza dandole mencion a escritores y filosofos de todos los tiempos: Platon, Socrates, Edgar Allan Poe, Rousseau, Tennyson. En esta ciudad sin puerto puedes caminar los rios de todas estas ciudades y tener siempre presente que el arte es universal y es de todos.

Hoy todavia mas se baila ya que se acerca su dia de independencia, Septiembre 16, casi dos siglos desde aquel entonces 1810-2008. Para ser exacto se ha bailado siempre. Los Aztecas bailaron sus victorias, sus nacimientos, sus uniones matrimoniales, y en fiestas y celebraciones tradicionales. Mexico baila con la vida diaria, da un giro al frente y una media vuelta para salvar obstaculos. Mexico baila su maiz y su petroleo, durante sus crisis y sus victorias. Si una cosa debemos aprender de Mexico es que el baile fortifica y nos orgullece……una pieza, por favor?

Video: Francisco Collazo
Photos: Julie Schwietert Collazo

The video below, “Tu no sabes que este va pa’ todo el mundo?” or “Don’t you know the whole world will see this?”, was the kids’ first experience conducting on-camera interviews.

In “Tu no sabes…” Miguel Davila, author of “Bienvenido a Mompox/Welcome to Mompox,” interviews Julio Zambrana and Hernando Sanchez Villalba, author of “El Otro Lado del Rio/The Other Side of the River,” about the importance of the Magdalena River in the lives of people who live in Mompox.

Even if you don’t speak Spanish, the video is worth watching. Julio, dressed in his school gym uniform, has borrowed Francisco’s watch to look “more professional.” Hernando has dressed in his best outfit and is distracted by Francisco’s cigar, which he appropriates during the interview to give himself an air of seriousness. Although the boys are cutting up and Miguel’s filming skills are somewhat compromised by the fact that he’s lounging in a hammock as he interviews his subjects, the knowledge and talent of the three boys shine through.

Equipment Used:

After a month in Mompox, we became aware of at least 100 different kinds of needs. Some days, we felt overwhelmed and just wanted to shut the door and take a big, deep breath. We did something better, though: we invited people to sit down and tell us their stories.

Based on what we learned (and what we’ll be sharing in future stories), we’ve come up with this list of 8 easy things you can do to help Mompox. Like many towns across the world, Mompox has amazing potential, but simply lacks some basic resources that are needed to realize its own capabilities.

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8. Clean your closets. One person’s junk is another person’s treasure, my mom always said, and she’s right. Those gently used clothes, that box of pencils you’ve saved but will never use, the crutches you needed when you broke your ankle… every single item you no longer need can be repurposed for people in need. In Mompox, kids need school supplies–notebooks, pens, pencils. Residents of the local nursing home would like art supplies–brushes, drawing paper, paints. And the hospital is in desperate need of used but still serviceable crutches, walkers, and other pieces of medical equipment. If you have these kinds of items and would be willing ship them–either directly to Mompox or to CollazoProjects, which will be sending materials periodically–you’ll not only be lightening your own load, you’ll be helping someone else!

7. Adopt a kid. The kids in the Voces de Mompox project and many of their peers live in profound poverty. Some don’t eat even two meals a day. Many miss school because they lack proper shoes (and are sent home if this is the case) or have damaged uniforms. If you could commit to “adopting” one kid and sponsoring his or her school-related needs for six months or a year, you’d be improving the quality of education and the future prospects of students who are eager to realize their potential. And the good news?? Sponsoring a kid doesn’t cost much. School uniforms range from $8.00 to $16.00 depending on the item being purchased. If this option interests you, please contact us directly at writingjulie@gmail.com.

6. Collect soda can tabs. Soda can tabs are easy for us to send to Colombia and can be recycled by the kids for money.

5. Browse through your bookshelf. In Mompox, the local public library receives funds to buy new books every four years. The condition of the books in the limited collection is quite poor and children can’t check books out to read at home. Any books that you no longer want would be welcomed by the kids– whether in English or in Spanish. The same is true of old magazines.

4. Donate old electronics. What’s your plan for that old laptop or camera? Don’t recycle it; repurpose it! Going from no technology to some technology is a big step for the Voces de Mompox project. And as we work towards non-profit status, you might just be able to claim a tax deduction.

3. Lend a hand. What’s your talent? What might you be able to do to support the Voces de Mompox project? We’ve received offers of website development and grant writing, both of which are welcome. If you have a talent that could be used to move this project to the next step, let us know; we’d be happy to benefit from your expertise and enthusiasm!

2. Visit Colombia. Combat the negative stereotypes of Colombia by traveling there and seeing amazing places and people for yourself.

1. Spread the word. Share your enthusiasm about the Voces de Mompox project with friends, family, and contacts. Encourage them to adopt one or more of these action steps as a personal challenge to make a positive difference in the lives of these amazing young people. What are specific ways you can spread the word? *Forward your favorite Voces de Mompox article to your contacts and encourage them to visit the site. *Link to CollazoProjects and the Voces de Mompox series on your own blog or website. *Feature Voces de Mompox in a story on your website.

For more information about any of these tips, please e-mail us at writingjulie@gmail.com or leave a comment below.

Thanks,
Francisco & Julie

The Update

Everything seemed to come together at the last minute.

We found a house for rent that would serve as the ideal space for Voces de Mompox to continue as an after school program. With a large living room (that’s PART of the living room, in the photo above–to be repurposed as a computer/multi-media room), three bedrooms (to be converted into a library, study room, and possible bedroom for future volunteers), a kitchen, two patios, and a couple of other nice details (three bathrooms, hooks ready for hammocks to be hung, and a nice work room), this house in the center of town, offered at a totally fair price by the owners who are enthusiastic about Voces de Mompox, it’s hard to imagine finding anything better.

We also interviewed and are prepared to hire a young woman who is motivated and totally qualified to facilitate Voces de Mompox on-site. Not only would she be an ideal director, the job would provide her with much needed income and the pride of being able to support her family.

By the end of our time in Mompox, most of the parents and family members of the kids had come by to introduce themselves, to thank us for caring about their loved ones, and to express their support for the Voces project. We feel a huge obligation and commitment to seeing this project through, and with all the infrastructural pieces in place, there’s just one more thing we need: funding!

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The Dollar Challenge

Since the Voces de Mompox project started, more than 4,000 people have visited CollazoProjects and read the kids’ articles and viewed their photography. The kids have been psyched to check our analytics and see how many people have seen their work and to learn where the visitors are from, and your support has been an incredible motivator for them.

In addition to your kind comments, your thoughtful personalized e-mails, donations to the ChipIn fund, and offers to help with everything from website development to grant-writing have been deeply appreciated.

The fact that 4,000 people have visited the site got us thinking: If every single person who read a Voces de Mompox article contributed just one dollar to the ChipIn fund, that would be $4,000! And $4,000 goes a long way in Colombia. In fact, $4,000 would secure the rental of the site for one full year, would pay the facilitator’s salary, and would provide some seed money for equipment.

Thus, we’re announcing The Dollar Challenge!

We challenge every visitor who hasn’t yet contributed to the Voces de Mompox fund to donate at least one dollar in support of the program being developed for the ninth graders of Mompox that will help them continue developing their writing, computing, multi-media, and communication skills, all in preparation for better opportunities for college and future careers. You’ll know how we’re using the money because updates will be posted at least once a week on the website and the kids themselves will be detailing what services they’re receiving and what work they’re creating on the ground in Mompox.

Are you ready to take on the challenge?! GREAT!

Just go to our home page and click on the ChipIn icon in the top right portion of the sidebar. This action will redirect you to a secure server where your transaction will be conducted via PayPal. If you have a PayPal account already, fantastic! If not, you can sign up for one–it’s quick, easy, and free.

Tomorrow, we’ll be posting 10 more ways you and your friends, family, and network can support Mompox to become the better community it’s capable of being. And stay tuned– there are lots more stories from the kids and from us about Mompox!

Thanks for your support,

Francisco & Julie