It wasn’t that we didn’t want to go; it’s that writing and research commitments in other cities and towns kept us busy. But this week, we finally just got in the car and hit the road.

The drive from Mexico City to Oaxaca is 5-6 hours, depending–as all trips from the capital do–on traffic and construction.

To leave the city, head towards the airport and take Zaragoza towards Highway 150D towards Puebla.

The first part of this drive is stressful–there’s the heavy traffic of people desperate to leave the city behind, and just as it clears up, you’re headed into the twists and turns of the mountain pass that leads to Puebla. As you head out the other end of that pass,though, take a deep breath and look to your right: if it’s a clear day, you’ll be able to see two snow-covered peaks in the distance.

Once you’ve passed the exits for Puebla, keep your eyes peeled for a PEMEX, and pull over for a fill-up. Even if you’ve got a half tank, this is one of the only gas stations you’ll encounter for miles, and you don’t want to be running on fumes on Highway 135D.

After your fill-up, follow the highway signs towards Oaxaca; these will lead you to the turn-off for Highway 135D, the two lane highway that will take you straight into Oaxaca’s city ceter. Once you’re burning rubber on Highway 135D, you’ll notice an abrupt shift in the landscape, from farmland to scrubby palms and tall cacti.

The next PEMEX you see really IS the last one for miles, so if you ignored my earlier advice, fill up now. For real. And while you’re at it, grab a mochacchino at The Italian Coffee Company and a snack–drinks and food, like gas, are scarce.

Your next stop is around kilometer 83, at a “parador turistico” (overlook) right before the Puente Calapa. Pull over for a helluva view and a quick break.

Here, you’ll be able to look into a deep canyon and the trickling river that runs through it. Leave an offering at the shrine that’s out of sight just below the parking area. Snap at a photo at the peak just off to the west, and admire the engineering work it took to build Puente Calapa, which soars a mile, it seems, above the river bed.

Back on the highway, the scenery starts to get dramatic–mountains as impressive as those in the American West, which makes perfect geographical sense. Slow down through this passage, not only because you’ll want to enjoy the views, but for safety’s sake, too.

And while it’s tempting to time your drive so that you hit this stretch of road at sunset, when the sun decides to show off with an impressive light show, I can say from experience that you should resist the notion. The two lane highway is not artificially lit, and this long haul on the last leg of the trip is not populated by any sizeable towns that give off any light. 18 wheelers make this route, too, and impatient drivers (just about everyone) risk their lives trying to pass at ridiculous speeds on the curve-ridden roads. The hazards of people traveling by foot or bike on the shoulder are also amplified at night.

Leaving the Sierra Madre behind, you’ll hit a fairly straight stretch leading you directly into Oaxaca Centro (Central Oaxaca). We’ll leave it to you to discover the magic for yourself, but can we just say: You have to visit Oaxaca!

Practical Tips

Tolls: There are seven tolls between Mexico City and Oaxaca. Each charges a different rate; in total, though, you can expect to spend about 300 pesos ($30 USD).

Telephones: If you’re carrying a cell phone, don’t expect to have a signal on most of Highway 135. There are SOS call boxes, though, so if you find yourself in a jam, pull over and use one.

Francisco wanted to see the pyramids.

We rented a car and began surveying friends and taxi drivers, asking “How long will it take to get to Teotihuacan?” and “What’s the best route?”

Five different people; five different answers.

This straight-up guide gives you the simplest and most direct set of directions to get out of the city and get to the pyramids, all in 40 minutes (if traffic is light).

Take Avenida Insurgentes Norte straight out of the city. Insurgentes Norte will turn into Highway 85; follow the signs towards Pachuca. Highway 85 will soon turn into Highway 132; just follow the well-placed signs directing you to the “Piramides.”

You can choose the “Cuota” (toll) or “Libre” (free) road; we took the cuota. If you do the same, have 42 pesos prepared for the single toll booth you’ll pass on the way to the pyramids.

The scenery is, for the most part, rather unremarkable, grayscale and industrial.

There are some exceptions, though:

fields of corn and nopales (cactus paddles, which are eaten in all different sorts of ways) and an occasional church that rises up in the middle of nowhere.

Suddenly, you’ll see the pyramid rising up out of the landscape and you’ll know you’re not far.

Expect to pay 48 pesos per person for the entry ticket to the pyramids, 40 pesos for parking if you have a car, and 35 pesos if you’re bringing a video camera along.

Don’t miss scaling the Piramide del Sol (Pyramid of the Sun), and don’t forget to carry your camera with you to the top. Take mini breaks at each level to catch your breath and stretch your legs before tackling the next set of stairs.

And though you might be tempted, don’t skip the museum, which has one of the most professional and impressive displays of archaeological materials I’ve ever seen. The exhibited items are set against creative, visually stimulating backgrounds that provide just the right contrast to make the items’ prominence and importance stand out.

Hours of the park: 8 AM- 5 PM

Mexico City is the perfectly placed capital: the geographic heart of Mexico, arteries run in and out of the city, leading you to the country’s best known destinations and least known towns. It’s five hours to either coast, and trips of shorter and longer durations make the capital the ideal point of departure for almost any road trip.

The country’s interstate infrastructure is solid and has improved dramatically in recent years, with most major highways in excellent condition. Travelers with a love of the open road have lots of viable road trip options; one of them is Highway 150D, which runs from Mexico City to Veracruz or vice versa.

We recently drove Highway 150D from the port city to the capital. It’s a gorgeous and often dramatic drive, taking you first through blue-green fields of corn, cabbage, and broccoli, then into the gently sloping cafetal (coffee farm) land. Suddenly, the engine is straining as you begin making the curvy summit through the mountains, which are laced with neblina (fog). Along the way, you’ll pass dozens of small and large shrines to the Virgin of Guadalupe, adorned with flowers, notes, and other offerings left by travelers who’ve passed before you. At night, the candlelight flickering in the shrines may leave a lone driver feeling haunted yet strangely comforted.

If you need a pick-me-up, pull onto the shoulder at any of the coffee kiosks that enterprising vendors have set up along the road. You’ll be treated to a cheap, strong shot of coffee straight from the cafetal, shaking you awake for the rest of the journey.

Once you’ve crested the mountain and the fog lifts, you’ll be treated to miles of flat highway and a panoramic vista of the last sierra you’ll tackle after passing through Puebla and just before funneling into bottleneck traffic that brings you back to the capital. This stretch of the drive is best enjoyed at dusk, when the setting sun casts an eerily beautiful light against the mountain top. Dotting the landscape are old haciendas and small-town church spires rising up into an otherwise uncluttered space. Drivers from the U.S. will be particularly pleased by the almost total absence of billboards on this highway, the only exception being occasional bull-shaped billboards on the top of high hills which advertise alcohol.

The entry into the capital can be a stressful one in stop-and-go traffic that demands the driver’s constant attention, which is likely to be thinning after the nerve-rattling stint through the last mountain chain, which is almost always a rain-soaked ride. But the payoff is easy access to the Centro Historico– the highway brings you straight into the city; just follow the signs toward the airport (aeropuerto) and then turn left when you see the sign for “Centro.”

Practical Tips for the Journey:

*Be sure to have money on hand for tolls. One of the reasons the highways are in excellent condition is because there is a very effective toll system in place. Tolls range anywhere from 20 pesos ($2 USD) to almost 100 pesos ($10 USD) and there are several on this trip.

*Carry small coins for bathroom breaks. Unlike the US highway system, this part of the Mexican highway does not have rest areas. Instead, you can use the restroom at any one of the PEMEX gas stations along this route. Most of these restrooms are exceptionally clean (though sometimes without toilet paper—always good to bring some along), but charge 2-3 pesos (20-30 cents) per person.

*Speed & Distance. Both distance and speed are measured in kilometers. The average speed limit on this route is 110 km/hour, though it is cut by almost half in the mountain switchbacks. Be extra cautious in these mountain passes, especially in rain or fog. When visibility is poor, turn on your hazard lights while driving.

*SOS Posts. One of the many reasons to recommend this route is the prevalence of SOS posts along the way. Should you have an emergency of any sort, you’ll be likely to encounter an SOS call box; they’re plentiful along Highway 150D.

*Keep your eyes on the road. The scenery on this route is stunning, but don’t lose sight of the road. It’s not infrequent that people run across the highway to get to the other side, and they’re particularly hard to see at night, especially in dark clothing. Also, there are certain parts of the drive—especially around toll booths and the approach to the city—where vendors line the roadway selling nuts and other wares. While they’re more familiar with the road than you are, keep an eye out for them.

*Retornos: There aren’t lots of exits on this highway, but don’t worry if you miss one; there are lots of “retornos” or turn-around points.

Photo by: wedgienet (Flickr creative commons)