For years, friends have been saying, “You have to go to Oaxaca,” with an imperative firmness in their voices and a distant, dreamy look in their eyes.

It wasn’t that we didn’t want to go; it’s that writing and research commitments in other cities and towns kept us busy. But this week, we finally just got in the car and hit the road.

The drive from Mexico City to Oaxaca is 5-6 hours, depending–as all trips from the capital do–on traffic and construction.

To leave the city, head towards the airport and take Zaragoza towards Highway 150D towards Puebla.

The first part of this drive is stressful–there’s the heavy traffic of people desperate to leave the city behind, and just as it clears up, you’re headed into the twists and turns of the mountain pass that leads to Puebla. As you head out the other end of that pass,though, take a deep breath and look to your right: if it’s a clear day, you’ll be able to see two snow-covered peaks in the distance.

Once you’ve passed the exits for Puebla, keep your eyes peeled for a PEMEX, and pull over for a fill-up. Even if you’ve got a half tank, this is one of the only gas stations you’ll encounter for miles, and you don’t want to be running on fumes on Highway 135D.

After your fill-up, follow the highway signs towards Oaxaca; these will lead you to the turn-off for Highway 135D, the two lane highway that will take you straight into Oaxaca’s city ceter. Once you’re burning rubber on Highway 135D, you’ll notice an abrupt shift in the landscape, from farmland to scrubby palms and tall cacti.

The next PEMEX you see really IS the last one for miles, so if you ignored my earlier advice, fill up now. For real. And while you’re at it, grab a mochacchino at The Italian Coffee Company and a snack–drinks and food, like gas, are scarce.

Your next stop is around kilometer 83, at a “parador turistico” (overlook) right before the Puente Calapa. Pull over for a helluva view and a quick break.

Here, you’ll be able to look into a deep canyon and the trickling river that runs through it. Leave an offering at the shrine that’s out of sight just below the parking area. Snap at a photo at the peak just off to the west, and admire the engineering work it took to build Puente Calapa, which soars a mile, it seems, above the river bed.

Back on the highway, the scenery starts to get dramatic–mountains as impressive as those in the American West, which makes perfect geographical sense. Slow down through this passage, not only because you’ll want to enjoy the views, but for safety’s sake, too.

And while it’s tempting to time your drive so that you hit this stretch of road at sunset, when the sun decides to show off with an impressive light show, I can say from experience that you should resist the notion. The two lane highway is not artificially lit, and this long haul on the last leg of the trip is not populated by any sizeable towns that give off any light. 18 wheelers make this route, too, and impatient drivers (just about everyone) risk their lives trying to pass at ridiculous speeds on the curve-ridden roads. The hazards of people traveling by foot or bike on the shoulder are also amplified at night.

Leaving the Sierra Madre behind, you’ll hit a fairly straight stretch leading you directly into Oaxaca Centro (Central Oaxaca). We’ll leave it to you to discover the magic for yourself, but can we just say: You have to visit Oaxaca!

Practical Tips

Tolls: There are seven tolls between Mexico City and Oaxaca. Each charges a different rate; in total, though, you can expect to spend about 300 pesos ($30 USD).

Telephones: If you’re carrying a cell phone, don’t expect to have a signal on most of Highway 135. There are SOS call boxes, though, so if you find yourself in a jam, pull over and use one.