In the first installment in an occasional series, “Driving Mexico,” we give you all the information you need for a road trip on Highway 150D, which runs from Veracruz to Mexico City.

Mexico City is the perfectly placed capital: the geographic heart of Mexico, arteries run in and out of the city, leading you to the country’s best known destinations and least known towns. It’s five hours to either coast, and trips of shorter and longer durations make the capital the ideal point of departure for almost any road trip.

The country’s interstate infrastructure is solid and has improved dramatically in recent years, with most major highways in excellent condition. Travelers with a love of the open road have lots of viable road trip options; one of them is Highway 150D, which runs from Mexico City to Veracruz or vice versa.

We recently drove Highway 150D from the port city to the capital. It’s a gorgeous and often dramatic drive, taking you first through blue-green fields of corn, cabbage, and broccoli, then into the gently sloping cafetal (coffee farm) land. Suddenly, the engine is straining as you begin making the curvy summit through the mountains, which are laced with neblina (fog). Along the way, you’ll pass dozens of small and large shrines to the Virgin of Guadalupe, adorned with flowers, notes, and other offerings left by travelers who’ve passed before you. At night, the candlelight flickering in the shrines may leave a lone driver feeling haunted yet strangely comforted.

If you need a pick-me-up, pull onto the shoulder at any of the coffee kiosks that enterprising vendors have set up along the road. You’ll be treated to a cheap, strong shot of coffee straight from the cafetal, shaking you awake for the rest of the journey.

Once you’ve crested the mountain and the fog lifts, you’ll be treated to miles of flat highway and a panoramic vista of the last sierra you’ll tackle after passing through Puebla and just before funneling into bottleneck traffic that brings you back to the capital. This stretch of the drive is best enjoyed at dusk, when the setting sun casts an eerily beautiful light against the mountain top. Dotting the landscape are old haciendas and small-town church spires rising up into an otherwise uncluttered space. Drivers from the U.S. will be particularly pleased by the almost total absence of billboards on this highway, the only exception being occasional bull-shaped billboards on the top of high hills which advertise alcohol.

The entry into the capital can be a stressful one in stop-and-go traffic that demands the driver’s constant attention, which is likely to be thinning after the nerve-rattling stint through the last mountain chain, which is almost always a rain-soaked ride. But the payoff is easy access to the Centro Historico– the highway brings you straight into the city; just follow the signs toward the airport (aeropuerto) and then turn left when you see the sign for “Centro.”

Practical Tips for the Journey:

*Be sure to have money on hand for tolls. One of the reasons the highways are in excellent condition is because there is a very effective toll system in place. Tolls range anywhere from 20 pesos ($2 USD) to almost 100 pesos ($10 USD) and there are several on this trip.

*Carry small coins for bathroom breaks. Unlike the US highway system, this part of the Mexican highway does not have rest areas. Instead, you can use the restroom at any one of the PEMEX gas stations along this route. Most of these restrooms are exceptionally clean (though sometimes without toilet paper—always good to bring some along), but charge 2-3 pesos (20-30 cents) per person.

*Speed & Distance. Both distance and speed are measured in kilometers. The average speed limit on this route is 110 km/hour, though it is cut by almost half in the mountain switchbacks. Be extra cautious in these mountain passes, especially in rain or fog. When visibility is poor, turn on your hazard lights while driving.

*SOS Posts. One of the many reasons to recommend this route is the prevalence of SOS posts along the way. Should you have an emergency of any sort, you’ll be likely to encounter an SOS call box; they’re plentiful along Highway 150D.

*Keep your eyes on the road. The scenery on this route is stunning, but don’t lose sight of the road. It’s not infrequent that people run across the highway to get to the other side, and they’re particularly hard to see at night, especially in dark clothing. Also, there are certain parts of the drive—especially around toll booths and the approach to the city—where vendors line the roadway selling nuts and other wares. While they’re more familiar with the road than you are, keep an eye out for them.

*Retornos: There aren’t lots of exits on this highway, but don’t worry if you miss one; there are lots of “retornos” or turn-around points.

Photo by: wedgienet (Flickr creative commons)